Becoming the first Hong Kong-born Master Sommelier marks a defining milestone in Derek Li’s career, but his journey is rooted in years of restaurant service, curiosity, and disciplined learning. From his early days on the floor in Lan Kwai Fong to becoming a respected voice in wine education and hospitality, Li has witnessed the evolution of Hong Kong and China’s wine markets firsthand. In this conversation, he shares his views on changing consumer behaviour, value-driven drinking, Chinese wine, food pairing, and the importance of educating the next generation, while reflecting on what the Master Sommelier title means for the road ahead.

Source: Derek Li

What does becoming the first Hong Kong-born Master Sommelier mean to you, and how has the journey changed your approach to wine?

I believe this is my lifetime achievement. I’ve been chasing this dream for over a decade, and after five years of relentless effort, I finally made it. My journey remains the same, but now I’ll have more time to educate younger generations. Hopefully, I can bring some positive energy to our industry.

What first made you realise wine could become your long-term profession?

I started my career working as a waiter, spending many years in Lan Kwai Fong, Central - surrounded by a wide variety of alcoholic beverages. Back then, I often sold drinks without any real knowledge, but that experience sparked my curiosity and gradually built my interest in alcohol. Later, my GM encouraged me to study wine, and that’s when my journey truly began.

How has wine drinking evolved in Hong Kong and the wider Chinese market?

The industry is maturing and becoming increasingly competitive. With the development of the internet and AI, pricing has become more transparent, making it harder to work in restaurants.

Which regions or wine styles have the strongest opportunities in China beyond Bordeaux and Burgundy?

I believe Bordeaux and Burgundy still dominate the market, but average spending power is declining. Consumers are increasingly looking for alternatives, as seen in the rise of Chinese wines and those from less traditional regions such as South Africa and Austria. Nowadays, people are seeking better value wines.

What makes a wine suitable for a restaurant list beyond technical quality?

I always focus on quality rather than price. My goal is to present the very best to our guests and give them an unforgettable experience in the restaurant. When creating a wine list and pairings, I also carefully consider the cuisine to ensure harmony between food and wine.

How do you define value in wine, especially in the premium on-trade?

I’m always searching for hidden gems and upcoming wineries or wine regions. As leaders in the global market, we need to anticipate trends and look toward the future.

What makes a wine work well with Chinese cuisine?

Chinese cuisine is incredibly complex, with diverse cooking techniques, recipes, and ingredients. The best way to understand it is to experience it yourself, ideally with your chef, since recipes can vary greatly even for the same dish. You never try, you never know.

Which grape varieties, regions or styles remain underestimated in China?

German Riesling can be confusing for many people, with its varying levels of sweetness and the often difficult-to-pronounce names of vineyards or villages. Without proper knowledge and explanation, it’s not easy to sell.

What mistakes do international wineries make when positioning wines in Hong Kong or China?

Fortunately, the Hong Kong market is very open to different styles and price ranges. However, value remains the most important factor, and it’s not possible to mark up prices excessively.

How has blind tasting and competition training shaped your approach to judging wine?

Practice makes perfect. If you’re unsure, I suggest doing more comparisons between the wines that confuse you. The best approach is to taste them every day leading up to your exam or competition.

Where do you see Chinese wines fitting into premium restaurant programs over the next five to ten years?

I believe most Michelin-starred and Top 50 restaurants are already serving Chinese wines or using them for pairings. I’m confident there is a bright future ahead for Chinese wine.

What’s next for Derek Li, and how would you like to support wine education and sommelier culture in Greater China?

I believe the most important goal is bringing more people together and educating the younger generation. We need to build a stronger, more united community for the future.

Header image source: Derek Li

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